Day 4

It's been a great last couple of days. I surfed a new spot yesterday, Chenggu, which is a great right that reminded me of Lowers, only this right has a great barrel section. I surfed it with a couple of pros (Jake Patterson, Betet, and Rory Powers) and even a few friends from Newport Beach (Ben and Sticky). What a small world it is. It was good seeing some familiar faces and hearing about there trip and the spots they've been surfing. They're only here for a few more days, but I will hopefully see them out again. There was a photographer in the water and he got some great barrel shots of myself and the bros. On the way home from Chenggu I did get VERY lost. It took me an hour to get home when it should have taken 20 minutes. But that's just part of the learning curve I guess. On a side note, I have mastered the trips to Uluwatu. Last night (Friday) I met a local named Salmon on the beach in Kuta and we had dinner and he took me out for a night on the town. I had no idea what I've been missing. While I don't care much for the scene in Kuta, the town next to us, Seminyak, has some amazing little bars with good music and drinks. We danced and met some Swedes and local girls. I was kind of bummed to find out that there are so many prostitutes in Bali. They're mainly from Java, and they're very aggressive and grab you constantly trying to get your attention. But if you make it clear you're not interested they'll leave you alone. I drank the local drink, Anak Madu, which is a cheap liquor here that gets you very drunk. It also makes you very hungover, trust me, I now know first hand. All in all though it was a great night and I'm very thankful for Salmon to have taken me out. We had a great connection, talking about girls, ex's, and the cultural differences (and similarities) of American life and Bali life. I love how family oriented they are, it makes me sad that we're not the same in regards to time spent with family, constantly helping each other emotionally as well as spiritually. There's absolutely nothing more important to the Balinese than there family. Family comes before money, jobs, and everything else. I appreciate the perspective he showed me and hope to make some changes when I return from Bali.

So today I woke up with a killer hangover, which was cured my some Balinese coffee and a big breakfast. I went to Uluwatu this morning and arrived to some huge surf. I've got photos and video for you! I found out how to download the photos and videos, so they're on there way, I just don't have my camera on me at the moment. So I was surfing Uluwatu when I met up with another local HB face, Charlie from 7th street. He's having a child with a Balinese woman and is very excited. We shared some great waves together and talked about how lucky we are to be in Bali while surfing. I caught a set wave that was almost double overhead and didn't make one of the sections. I came up to the surface to find that I broke my first board. It's only 4 days into my trip and I've already broke a board! I was pretty bummed, but the surf was so good I went back to Kuta and grabbed another one. I was a little shook up about the broken board and didn't try anything to stupid the next session and luckily got through without breaking #2. There were about 8 boards broken today at Uluwatu. I could hear the ding repair guys on the cliff celebrating! hahaha!. I also got to surf with a local Uluwatu legend, Gatut. He has the best style I've seen here and was getting the craziest barrels as well. He's very friendly and gave me a few great waves.

In between sessions I experienced how tense the relationships are between the warungs on the cliff that serve food, drinks, give massages, etc. I've been spending all my time and money with one warung in particular, Jacko Warung. The lady who runs it, Sundi, has taken great care of me and I've now begun calling her my "Bali Mom". She loves it, and gets a kick out of it. But back to my point, I was hanging out with Charlie at his personal favorite warung, next to mine, and I accepted a back and shoulder massage from one of there girls. I could tell that Sundi was hurt that I got the massage from another warung. Also, I couldn't even order food from my warung and eat it 10 feet away at the other warung with Charlie, it's that intense. They are very competitive and expect there customers to be loyal to there spot. I understand, however, it reminded me that even the most happy and relaxed people have there downfalls. I learned my lesson and don't plan on mixing the business again.

I don't plan on going out tonight even though it's Saturday, I'm just too tired from surfing all day. I've realized that my trip is not going to be one of partying and drinking, etc., that's just not my style. I feel I can do that at home, but I can't surf perfect waves like this at home. So surfing will be my main focus this trip, which is cool because I'll save heaps of money not buying booze. I spent like $15 last night drinking not just for me, but I also payed for Salmon, seeing that he was my host. If I drank that much in the States I'd have spent at least $50. I'm really loving the prices here, for once I'm traveling and not worrying about my budget. It's truly the most relaxing trip of my life besides being pounded by giant surf. lol. I need to book the boat trip still for the boys, but I'm really on Bali time here. I will make sure it's done by tomorrow night (I promise Grayson!).

I'm now staying at Suka Beach Inn, which costs $5 a night and includes a great breakfast with coffee or tea, fresh fruit, and my choice of eggs, pancakes, or faffle. I still don't know what a faffle is, so I will be brave and try it tomorrow. I spoke to the guy running the show at Suka and he's gonna hook me up if I pay upfront for 2-3 weeks. Maybe I'll only pay $3-4 per night. I know, it sounds cheap of me, but thats how it is, bargain, bargain, bargain. If I decide to stay another month making it 3, then I will be stoked that I nickel and dimed it. I hope everyone's doing well out there, wherever you're at at the moment. You're all in my thoughts.